27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know

December 3, 2015 | 7 Comments » | Topics: main

These rules basically tell you how to choose a suit, wear a suit and best of all – look fan-fucking-tastic in a suit (Try and restrain yourself ladies).

 

 

1. The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel

It’s all about BALANCE.

 

 

2. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old school, Mad Men-style.

Need to look old school or new school?!

 

 

3. Pocket squares add an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.

Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

 

 

4. When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

Tsk, tsk, John McCain. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders.

 

 

5. A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

It’s complicated. Read more about it here: http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-pots-an-explanation

 

 

6. Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you’re attending a funeral.

Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.

 

 

7. Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.

Belts are not entirely necessary though. But it gives an extra umpf!

 

 

8. You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:

If you wear sneakers, i promise the wrath of every italian tailor (ever) will smite you! HARD!

 

 

9. Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.

This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual “hand in pocket” pose.

 

 

10. For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.

 

 

11. If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

 

 

12. The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants from falling off the hanger.

Either way, fold that shit properly! Instructional video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_YdPNWvXOI

 

 

13. You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to m

Napoleon would be proud!

 

 

14. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.

Might as well drop the suit if you don’t..

 

 



 

 

15. The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.

 

 

16. Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half

BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If you’re not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends.

 

 

17. If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.

This is the only of the 27 rules you can look past and still look awesome!

 

 

18. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.

Vests are best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. *hint hint US!!*

 

 

19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about 1/2 an inch.

For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.

 

 

20. When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.

Unstitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’s left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.

 

 

21. Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down.

No one needs to see your hairy gams.

 

 

Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.

Try to avoid screaming colors. They don’t blend as well.

 

 

The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.

 

 

24. Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.

 

 

25. For a more fashion forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.

For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces.

 

 

26. If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.

Sweat baby sweat baby sex is a Texas drought.

 

 

27. Finally, go for the dimple.

Check out this handy guide on nailing the tie dimple: http://www.mrporter.com/journal/journal_issue104/8#1

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  • odot

    cool read. suits are damn expensive

  • red

    The windsor is the tie knot of wankers

  • Beppo1963

    Nice article – some good tips. My father always told me never to put your hands in your jacket pockets because only JFK could get away with that.
    I usually go with the four-in-hand knot for my tie. I find that even a half-Windsor knot is too big.

    • sardiverdave

      Depends. I’m very tall and wear extra long ties. I’m usually making the knot farther up the narrower part of the tie, and some require a wider knot to avoid making the knot look too small.

  • sardiverdave

    Suggest the shoe guide include burgundy, which works with some colors brown does not.

  • Farmer_Joe

    I have to dissent on the Windsor. It depends entirely on the width of the shirt collar. I never use a half-windsor or a four-in-hand, as I hate asymmetrical knots. For wide collars, I use a windsor, and for narrower collars I use a pratt-shelby knot.

  • dan-O

    >>> Unstitch the jacket’s pockets

    This the *only* thing in the article I don’t really agree with. Only unstitch the pockets if you plan on using them… which you shouldn’t.

    It is best to leave them stiched, actually, since that will hold them in place better (they won’t sag), and they aren’t visible anyways.

    But great article!